Seems it is case of yet another page that relies on (google) analytics to work properly: it works with Enhanced Tracking Protection turned off. (Shield at the start of URL bar.)
So it is basically "you have to let us track you to read our content". /Bold move, let's see if it pays off…/
EDIT: NM, seems it is unrelated to tracking after all; just some spaghetti code that (presumably) attaches load event handler too late.
Same. Workarounds don't appear to be available on mobile. On one hand, it's hilariously meta; on the other hand, I can't even go into the arguably minimalist reader mode