I find it sort of ironic for this sort of thing to show up on a computer programming site, because our world has long since discovered that automating itself becomes a skill. Even if we hypothesize a world in which the top-level restaurants are fully automated behind the scenes, it will still be master chefs that come up with the new programs, new foods, new ways of doing things, and commanding dizzying new heights of pricing in the process.
The absolute worst case scenario is that the culinary world becomes like the visual arts or fashion worlds; the materials and general skills are broadly available, but there shall ever be an upper end of the art from which to sneer down at the plebians, even if it only in style and fashions, and by that I mean raw styles and fashions. The clothing fashion world shows this most clearly, in that creating knockoffs of today's fashions isn't even that technically challenging, and yet there is still a "high class" fashion world for those who care to participate in.
The instinctive human drive to differentiate is what creates that, the upper class attitude is what creates that, the incidental details of how one particular field happens to signal is hardly relevant, the actual details are themselves nearly infinitely malleable.
The programming world is so many levels deep into automation of automation of automation that we've nearly forgotten the promises that one day we'd be automated out of existence. But the promises were made, and they failed, because we merely upped our expectations and advanced to the next level. Perhaps someday there won't be a "next level" for us to rise to, but that is a world so different from ours we can no longer predict what it is like.
The culinary world will adapt. There will be much moaning, must wringing of hands, and a hell of a lot of signaling words flying around about how wonderful hand crafted artisan food is (even if for some reason, every day, fewer people act to consume it), even as there is ever and always still an elite, which will probably consist of mostly the same people anyhow.
I think about this a lot. There's something fundamentally lacking in the way we cook and share cooking, that other arts have already solved.
When a musician creates music, they can record and share it with anyone who cares. Writers print books, actors make movies, coders make apps.
With cooking, we're still stuck in the live performance era. In a restaurant you can eat what the chef prepares and enjoy their art. But if you can't get to the restaurant or can't afford it you miss out. Famous chefs release cookbooks and film cooking shows where they let you watch them and you can try to recreate their craft for yourself, but that's not really sharing the food.
The problem is there is no food media. An actual dish can't be recorded, transmitted, and reproduced, and so we rely on storytelling about the food using other methods. Food is the subject but not the substance.
We've been here before, and we've moved beyond this before. The mass media of writing started with monks transcribing text, but then was improved by the printing press. Writing let us describe music on sheets that you could reproduce by hand at home, but the media of music really started with the wax cylinder, then the phonograph and radio. I think food will become the next major art to become a medium.
I disagree. I believe this actually puts food farther away from the common man, more esoteric than it really has to. Food is fundamentally different from the arts you mentioned. Some people may facetiously say that they can't live without visual arts, or music. To say you cannot live without food -- that is a true statement. Programming, painting, writing -- we only started doing these things relatively recently in terms of our full history, and were some near-extinction event to happen in the future (distant, but an absolute certainty), it is possible we may stop doing them in the future. But we will always be eating and drinking.
I can tell you that food can indeed be "recorded, transmitted, and reproduced" -- we do it by doing the cooking ourselves, learning from recipes and our imagination. Why should food be so hard? That it's considered an extraordinary feat to cook a wonderful dinner? Why should it be on par with painting a painting or writing a book? I assure you that if you ask any honest cook or chef, they will tell you that cooking isn't difficult. Their job is fucking hard, but the cooking itself? As simple as arts can go.
The upper limit of cooking has, admittedly, increased. This is a recent phenomenon. In the future, this may become easier as certain technologies become democratised, and the avant-garde again becomes the status quo. We saw this with Escoffier, Bocuse. We will see it again with Adria. A competent home cook will not miss out on the food of any great restaurant (bar the cutting edge, maybe?) as long as he/she is willing to learn a few tricks (with the restaurant book craze, there are no more secrets) and pay a bit more for groceries (thanks, globalisation).
I hope I don't sound too hostile. I didn't downvote you either (hah, don't even have the choice to). I just think that you're looking at food from too academic a viewpoint -- too high up. That's not to say that food cannot reach greater heights. But not in the way you predict or wish it to.
Of course, I do hope you visit more great restaurants. Having worked in the back of house of said restaurants, I do want your business! The experience of a restaurant transcends its food, and the unique whole package is of course, not replicable anywhere but in that restaurant. Would there be "restaurant media"? I don't know -- restaurant documentaries don't cut it, maybe the VR headsets we were promised a decade ago would be the solution?
Somehow I think that actually going to the restaurant is, in the end, the only way to do it.
(Whether or not the concept of restaurant will survive into the far future is another debate)
> Food is fundamentally different from the arts you mentioned. Some people may facetiously say that they can't live without visual arts, or music. To say you cannot live without food -- that is a true statement.
I fail to see the difference.
Nutrition is a solved problem. Just drink soylent.
So we are left to talk about the art side of food - taste, smell, feel, touch, look. Artistic composition of ingredients to create a pleasurable meal.
> A competent home cook will not miss out on the food of any great restaurant (bar the cutting edge, maybe?) as long as he/she is willing to learn a few tricks (with the restaurant book craze, there are no more secrets) and pay a bit more for groceries (thanks, globalisation).
But it's hard to reproduce food from recipe.
We need:
The difference is that food, by and large, is not even an art. And I'm saying that as someone who cooks professionally and looks up to the greatest chefs of all time. If you are not developing new dishes or pushing the edge of your cuisine, what you're doing is not really an art. People have to stop perpetuating the myth that food is this black box that just happens. It only serves to make some chefs richer and dumbs down the rest of us.
> Nutrition is a solved problem. Just drink soylent.
You're trolling right? Nutrition is not a solved problem. That's like saying medicine or human biology is a solved problem. We still don't know a lot of things -- what we need, what we want, what we should avoid. And I'm sorry to break it to you but Soylent is not a solution. Might be in the future, but drink it full-time in its current state? Not exactly nutritious.
> But it's hard to reproduce food from recipe.
I realise that not everyone is a good cook. But to be honest, practice goes a long way. You might think those few hours of your time are wasted, but I really think otherwise. We spend orders of magnitude more time reading, IMing, working. Spend one whole weekend cooking. I guarantee you'll be a much better cook. And it's a skill that will last you forever. It's also tasty.
> - better frozen/packaged foods
What's wrong with fresh food? (Not living in the USA, but fresh food is plentiful where I live). Even then, what's wrong with your frozen chicken breast? Cook it well, and it will beat out the offerings of most average restaurants.
> - detailed recipes
How detailed do you want them? I can recommend a few books if you want. Youtube helps too.
> - food 3d printers!
I actually don't know why you want this. Like, are you trying to replicate restaurant food with them? No restaurant I've heard of uses them.
PS: Throwaway account? You seem to be familiar with how to post on HN, yet your account was created only 10 minutes ago
It really isn't. Like any physical craft, it takes practice, patience, some failure, but a competent home cook should be able to recreate most of the classics from a recipe book.
>Why should food be so hard? That it's considered an extraordinary feat to cook a wonderful dinner? Why should it be on par with painting a painting or writing a book?
Painting a bad painting is trivial, as is writing a terrible book. (well, writing a few pages of a terrible book is trivial. writing a terrible 500 page novel still takes some stick-with-it, or at least a lot of cutting and pasting.) And cooking a not very good meal is pretty easy, too; Certainly no harder than churning out a few pages of bad fan-fiction.
Doing those things well is more difficult. And being truly great is difficult indeed.
In fact, I think music is a pretty good analogy here. It used to be that a lot more people participated in the making of music; singing was a pretty normal thing for normal people to do while working or even while making war. That just doesn't happen anymore; You could say that it is sad that the average man or woman can't sing at all, but on the other hand, we all have access to the very best musicians of our time.
I think it's worth bearing in mind that I was explicitly discussing a future "worst case scenario" for the upper-class culinary culture, and that ultimately nothing in the forseeable future actually prevents you from treating food with whatever set of values you want to. No matter how roboticized "The Best Restaurant In Paris" is, you'll still be able to buy a free-range chicken from your grocery store and pan-sear on your over to your tastes, nor will anything stop you from trying to open a restaurant with those values. (Said restaurant may fail, but new restaurants face an uphill battle in the best of circumstances.) The practices of "The Best Restaurant In Paris" probably have very little impact on $YOUR cooking today, after all, for $YOUR being all readers of this (late) comment.
I just noticed your username. Nice. I know people (with embedded software/control systems experience) who are interested in the 'cooking robot' concept. If I ever become rich, it's something I would invest in.
See, I think we need a "player piano" - something very rudimentary and limited, but that lets people exchange recipes. Personally? I would prefer to start with heat timing and control, as that's the sort of thing I tend to screw up the most.
"The problem is there is no food media. An actual dish can't be recorded, transmitted, and reproduced,..."
Sure there is. There are likely plenty of copies of various dishes in the freezer section of your local grocery mart. Some are, objectively, pretty good; others are likely just much better than you could do yourself.
>Sure there is. There are likely plenty of copies of various dishes in the freezer section of your local grocery mart. Some are, objectively, pretty good; others are likely just much better than you could do yourself.
Huh. See? I am a /terrible/ cook. Like one out of three times I try to cook something it is objectively inedible.
However... frozen foods? seriously?
Please link me to some that are "pretty good" - I mean, I want to believe you, but I have tried many, and so far have been quite disappointed, both by the cheap and the expensive.
Edit:
When I say "frozen foods" I mean TV-dinner style fully-cooked food. I practically live off of frozen chicken... the uncooked kind that you throw in the oven.
It's virtually impossible to be a great cook at home; commercial cooking equipment puts out a lot more heat than consumer equipment and it does make a difference. Take a simple roasted chicken: what comes out of your home oven will not be the same as what comes out of a commercial oven.
That said it's not difficult to prepare decent food at home; if you're unable to, maybe fundamentally it's just not something you care to do. Fine, nothing wrong with that, eat out or buy prepared food. If you don't like what's in the freezer, I find that the deli section of most supermarkets has a variety of prepared dishes that are ready to reheat and eat.
> It's virtually impossible to be a great cook at home; commercial cooking equipment puts out a lot more heat than consumer equipment and it does make a difference. Take a simple roasted chicken: what comes out of your home oven will not be the same as what comes out of a commercial oven.
You can create a great roast chicken at home. Very few dishes require a specialized oven or more than 450 degrees F.
The key difference between a home kitchen and a commercial kitchen is that in a commercial kitchen, you have more space, stocked ingredients, and more tools. And a bunch of apprentices to do stuff for you. You can cook everything at home that you can in a commercial kitchen, just less efficiently.
In fact, of all the home cooked dishes that is easiest to reproduce with minimal effort/intervention, I'd say roast chook it about the best/easiest/simplest.
I'd suggest people that say they can't cook, try to cook roast chicken from recipe. Make sure to use a timer and you really can't go wrong.
>It's virtually impossible to be a great cook at home;
I don't believe you.
I've eaten some absolutely mind-blowing meals made at home on mid to high-end consumer-grade equipment. Obviously, I wasn't the cook, and I'm no expert, but the proof of the pudding is in the tasting, as it were. I don't think restaurants can consistently match the better cooks in my family until they approach the $50/head range.
I am absolutely convinced that it's primarily skill and not equipment. I do think it is something I could get better at if I was willing to put a lot of effort into it. But it is a whole lot of effort, and it's not just the effort of learning, it's the effort of doing it every night. (In fact, putting the effort into /learning/ is on my to-do list. but even if I can, if I can pay $10 and avoid an hour of work, even if I can do that work well, I will.)
But if I could buy prepared frozen food (that took minimal effort on my part to prepare and clean up from) that was even just acceptable? I'd pay. It doesn't need to be mind-blowing, just 'good enough'
I mean, part of the problem is that it's a process; you have to plan what you want, then go pick out fresh food, then cook it, etc, etc. Which reminds me, I should set up the safeway delivery again. that was pretty cool.
>If you don't like what's in the freezer, I find that the deli section of most supermarkets has a variety of prepared dishes that are ready to reheat and eat.
Yeah... I usually get a rotisserie chicken once a week or so. Cheap and good. Most of the other stuff... well, maybe my standards are too high? but it's pretty hit and miss, and mostly miss.
This is funny. Commercial kitchens are better because there's more of everything - more ovens, more burners, more prep equipment, more fridge space - not because of more heat. The average home cook uses far too much heat already.
I'd rate DiGiorno pizzas fairly high, and also Beecher's Mac & Cheese. The frozen stuff that you stick in the oven for 40 minutes, not the results you get on Google.
Huh. I don't particularly like DiGiorno; I mean, it's not terrible, but considering the nutritive value of a pizza, I'm not sure it's worth it. I mean, a good pizza is worth it. Also, it's like 50% off actually getting delivery pizza (well, not quite 50% if you get a good one.) I'm probably better off throwing some frozen boneless skinless chicken thighs in the oven instead, if I'm not going to get something super tasty.
Also, I'm not sure if that counts as 'fully cooked' - I mean, it's not much easier than the aforementioned chicken thighs; also, the part of cooking I screw up most often? spacing out over the alarm and burning it. Really, some sort of convection oven that would automatically shut off (and somehow stop the food from overcooking?) would go a long ways towards solving that problem.
The /idea/ of fully-cooked food that you pop into the microwave for a specified period of time is pretty great for me; usually the cook time isn't long enough for me to get distracted and if I do, it's just cold, the fire alarm doesn't go off. But the reality comes up short. the only food I've been able to stomach like that is the "steam bags" of chicken alfredo.
Eh, DiGiorno started doing this new thing (or at least, a new thing showed up at my local supermarket) a few months back where they seem to layer on the herbs pretty heavily with good results. I would call their standard fare average, especially in comparison.
Interestingly, I was a fan of Newman's Own (the aforementioned steam bags) for a while, and then the quality of what I was getting seemed to drop, so I stopped buying them. I haven't done frozen pastas for months now.
Jack Daniels sells some stuff that looks nice; the frozen ribs turned out remarkably well for 5 minutes in the microwave. As meat, it's not great, but they've just done the herbs and spices in a way I find appealing. Put some garlic bread or instant mashed potatoes with it and it's pretty good.
Really, though, it sounds like we have significant differences in taste, so maybe you should take my suggestions as things to avoid. :D
Well, they are things to try. I actually haven't tried a steam bag /or/ DiGiorno for some time now. I've been doing the 'cook a weeks worth of food in the crock pot and freeze it' thing. It just seems so weird to me that a terrible cook like myself can make /frozen food/ that turns out better than the experts.
>The absolute worst case scenario is that the culinary world becomes like the visual arts or fashion worlds; the materials and general skills are broadly available, but there shall ever be an upper end of the art from which to sneer down at the plebians, even if it only in style and fashions, and by that I mean raw styles and fashions. The clothing fashion world shows this most clearly, in that creating knockoffs of today's fashions isn't even that technically challenging, and yet there is still a "high class" fashion world for those who care to participate in.
huh. That seems like a pretty good scenario to me. I mean, the current state of clothing is... well, it's pretty great for the poor, and for people who don't want to spend a lot on clothing. And people who want to spend a lot of money on clothing seem to be happy, and people who want to pretend like they are spending a lot of money on clothing also seem to be happy, High-quality clothing that is in good repair but that is used and out of style is nearly free. so I really don't see the problem.
My problem is that from what I've seen? when eating out, there's a very dramatic difference between what I get for $5 and what I get for $50. (or, more realistically, $20)
Personally? I'm generally pretty pleased with pants that cost less than a nice meal. I mean, the difference between a pair of "Kirkland Signature" jeans and a pair of Diesel jeans is 10x in price, and as far as I can tell, functionally, the Kirkland jeans are just fine. In many ways better than the diesel jeans. Of course, I'm wearing jeans I bought at Costco, and that says things socially, but I'm pretty okay with that. They are good jeans. In fact, I've worn my costco jeans while eating $50 dinners.
If I could walk into a McDonalds (or costco) and buy a $5 meal that was functionally equivalent (minus the social cache) to a $50 meal? I would be extremely happy, and I'd be happy to let the guy paying $50 for the same thing with nicer lighting feel superior to me.
The restaurants in question are automating the parts of their business not directly related to their core competencies. They have their specialty dishes, and those are still made by hand.
I'm not surprised. As a coffee-drinking Italian, I personally think Nespresso is really good at what it does: it delivers, time after time, a great coffee with no effort whatsoever. You'll have to find a really good barista using really good equipment and really good coffee to beat it. It's the pinnacle of decades of evolutionary experiments from one of the richest companies on Earth, fine-tuning what is, like the article says, a relatively simple process; when you look at it that way, it's not surprising that it works so well.
This said, their business model is very much anti-consumer: they're doing with coffee what HP and Epson did with ink. For this reason alone, I never bought a Nespresso and I'll stick to brewing my own coffee. As the article says, it's not just about measuring, not even measuring quality: it's about the kind of world we want to build.
"Music snobbery is the worst kind of snobbery. ‘Oh, you like those noises, those sounds, in your ear? Do you like them? They’re the wrong sounds. You should like these sounds’" - Dara O'Briain
I am a coffee-snob. In some ways this is a curse - I hate nearly all the coffee available to me locally. Latte art or no, there are particular tastes I can't stand anymore, where when I first started drinking coffee I wouldn't have cared if the coffee was Nescafe or single-origin.
That's like saying that food with sauce isn't food... It's simply a different way of enjoying coffee.
I'm a massive coffee snob, but I love a good flat white (like a late but smaller (160-180mL as opposed to a late which is more like 215mL, and served in a cup), especially with a double shot.
Sure, the coffee is fine. The question is one of control for me, not of quality. I like old-school "analog" coffee like my simple pourover or stovetop espresso machine because they are simple devices and, properly maintained, will make coffee forever. A capsule coffee machine is complex, the capsules can't be made by you (and some are triple-packaged, leading to lots of waste), they require power and microprocessors, and so on.
I choose the simpler method not because the coffee is better (though I'm sure it can be, and many factors are at play here), but because, in a way, it's the FOSS alternative to the bloated, proprietary capsule systems.
At home I have a NZ$150 single-boiler espresso machine and a $80 conical burr grinder. I buy 50g bags of coffee for $10 from the local coffee roaster, which works out to around $0.50 per coffee, around half the price of the nespresso pods.
IME, depending on your grind, it can take quite a bit of pressure to plunge the aeropress. Having sustained a cut (well, more a chunk gouged out) from a broken pyrex cup, I think I'll stick with the plastic.
I found this app called Acceptable Espresso. A bunch of coffee nuts in SF go around and test only espresso and if its consistently "acceptable" they put it in the app. I have tried a bunch of what they deem acceptable and its some of the best espresso I have had in the world.
Now to me there are several aspects to this. One clear factor is whether the barista "cares" about the coffee they are giving me. Clay at Special X-tra is so damn good at pulling a perfect shot every single time and Chris just doesn't care and pulls a mediocre shot at best. Everywhere I go where the barista "cares" about pulling that shot the espresso is "acceptable."
I don't judge on characteristics of the beans/roast, I know some like acid, some like smooth. If the coffee is fresh, not burned, ground properly, tamped properly (an artform) and pulled properly and with care, I am going to like it most likely.
In terms of the Nespresso system, what you've done is remove the possibility of someone caring about the coffee they are serving me. I've tried espresso's from the Nespresso system and they are not even close to what I can get at Elite Audio, Special Xtra (make sure Clay does it), Vega, Blue Bottle (more of scene than I usually like), Cento, or Jackson Place. Its reliably very mediocre at best. The least acceptable espresso I've had is at Coffee Bar, where they roast a little too dark for my tastes, and even those, as long as I tell them to pull it short, are much better than a Nespresso system shot.
"Caring" doesn't mean much in the context of a blind coffee taste test, nor does it mean much in the context of good things. Caring to make something good and having the ability to do so are completely separate things.
When it comes to various kinds of food preparation, 'caring' is basically the ability to care enough to learn the required skills. While it's true that the barrista doesn't need to care about you on that day to pull a good shot, they have to care enough about coffee to learn the skills required to pull a good shot.
Yes, however it's not a completely bogus indicator since pulling a good shot is probably difficult to perfect if you don't care, and if you do care probably not so hard that you can't learn to do it reasonably properly and consistently.
tl;dr: Huge number of fine restaurants serve Nespresso-capsule coffee. They are more consistent than barista-made coffee; the whole process is controlled, and even came out ahead in blind tests. Author however still argues that there is a place for the artisan and the handmade. Author didn't give the win to Nespresso on the blind test -- yet author actually saw which coffee was in each cup. Author actually rendered rendered his score in said blind test useless.
You forgot to mention that author based his article around a test with 4 subjects. Eg. statistic results based on a sample size of 4.
I think we do not even have to debate the quality of the coffee used in the tests and that the coffee the author brought from home was ground 4 days earlier.
There is a lot going on here. All I can say is that I'm not sure El Bulli is a good example of the human touch being lost. The amount of manpower that went into their meals was insane. I'm sure Adria said something about functioning like machines, but in the event that meant huge amounts of practice, crazy attention to detail, tons of trial and error, endless painstaking documentation, etc. Hard work, but creative work. Watch "Cooking in Progress" if you're interested in the details (a bit dry in my opinion).
Even if Nespresso was significantly worse than it is, I wouldn't be surprised by an otherwise good restaurant using it, simply because I don't expect good food to correlate to good coffee. Getting coffee or tea that's any better than merely drinkable is quite uncommon in my experience regardless of the quality of the food. I assume it's different in countries where some espresso after (or before) a meal is more common, though.
I would expect even good restaurants to have just okay coffee, not as good as the average cafe, unless we're talking an excellent breakfast place. In the US, people have coffee with breakfast and with dessert. So a dinner restaurant isn't going to serve a lot of cups of coffee -- just to a subset of people who choose to have dessert.
And although good coffee is always welcome, you don't really need a great coffee with dessert, just a decent one. You want something to perk your senses up a bit after the meal and to provide heat and bitterness to balance out the sweet, probably cold dessert. Nobody's going to be focusing on the coffee, just the dessert. And people don't expect to pay more than a few bucks for a cup of coffee, even at a nice place.
So there's really not much profit in stocking great coffee, installing top-of-the-line coffee machines, and training your staff how to make it. Making espresso is relatively time-consuming, too, as is grinding the beans and cleaning everything (working as a barista is like 90% cleaning). So you buy something that sounds impressive enough to list on the menu for as cheap as you can get it, you grind up enough ahead of time to get you through the night, you put it in a big industrial-sized drip machine with an insulated carafe, and you forget about it.
>Nobody's going to be focusing on the coffee, just the dessert.
I think that's actually a common misconception. Maybe it's relevant only in coffee-heavy cultures, but a coffee is (often) the very last thing one will taste before leaving the restaurant. You want your customers to leave on a high note, right? This is why so much effort is spent on the dessert, the final dish. But the coffee will follow the dessert! That's the final dish.
When an otherwise decent meal is followed by a terrible coffee, to me it's depressing; it forces me to re-evaluate the experience. Maybe those dishes weren't as good as I thought, maybe they got them right by accident... This is why many restaurants will actually offer you liquor at the very end; it's an easy way to make you leave happy. If you don't go down that route, then you should invest some time in making sure the coffee is good. Or at least get a Nespresso :)
Well, I'm talking about the US, where I have always had coffee served with dessert, not after it. And of course the coffee should be decent, even pretty good. I'm just saying it doesn't make economic sense to serve great coffee unless you're intending to focus on that as a restaurant.
You're not really supposed to finish your coffee before you finish your dessert. I mean, it's fine to, but the last thing you ingest at a restaurant should be a beverage.
The article discusses how society treats information differently depending on where it came from, and how it was produced -- even if that difference is not observable in the raw bits themselves.
When we are discussing whether artisan-made products are better, I think it is worthwhile to have in mind whether we're considering objective, measurable standards, or a different sort of perspective that takes into account "color". From the article:
> Of course, we need to think about yield, efficiency and environmental impact. But we also need to think about what kind of world we want to live in. And if we do, most of us would say that we would prefer food chains that preserve human links between consumer, farmer, land, and animals, in a landscape that combines functionality and beauty as much as is possible.
Is the concept of "preserving human links" something that can be measured objectively, or is it color?
The Nespresso story brings up an important point, especially for everybody in Silicon Valley.
Analog.
No, really, I'm serious. It really is about analog. For years and years, everyone who has had any experience with technology has been striving to create perfection and flawless beauty in every sense of the words. Digital is the best way to do this – it's calculated, cold, and mathematical. It's predictable and reassuring. But humans aren't digital. Our hands tremble; they don't stay steady like a robot's mechanical arm. Our brains aren't perfect: they often forget things we want to remember, and remember things we want to forget. Our walking isn't straight. Many of us have less-than-flawless health and vision. We're not completely symmetrical, and look pretty ugly without clothing.
In other words, humans are imperfect.
But, perfection, while it is the antithesis to imperfection, is paradoxically horrible for humans. Our brains are wired to expect change and differentiation from the routine. We like good surprises, and monotony gets dull. Unlike a computer, our neurons are always firing and active rather than passive, so we hate passivity.
So, isn't perfection just the antithesis of everything that makes the world beautiful? A lovely red leaf hanging on a tree long after the winter solstice. The knotted wood on a piano. The fingerprints on a record. Isn't perfection what takes the life out of life?
As we continue to automate, we really, seriously need to ask ourselves a question: will we accept convenience for mediocrity?
Sadly, consumer choices and corporate brainwashing have shown in the past that we will.
And that won't change in the future. Enjoy your handmade coffee now, because it will get rarer and rarer in the future. And with every imperfect barista replaced with a perfect machine, we'll lose a little bit of what makes humans...
Although your description of human imperfection is picturesque and I tend to agree, I don't doubt that we can automate imperfection. I've given the subject some thought recently since I just spent all of yesterday manually tweaking note start and end times in a sequenced piano composition of mine to make it sound more natural.
I would argue instead that digital "perfection" allows us to enjoy variety better. Take this example. The coffee isn't the centerpeice of the experience. When going to a restraunt the primary points are generally the people you go with and the food. In that regard, substandard coffee would do more harm than good.
This is a bit ridiculous. Nespresso is best described as not bad and not good - it's drinkable in the same way as Starbucks. The technology is pretty rudimentary and the machines don't have sufficient boilers to get a consistent water temperature going through the coffee (tightly controlled water temperature and freshness of the coffee are the two main variables for flavour). The espresso they made in the test must have been pretty mediocre not to trounce Nespresso. (The author's coffee was never going to win any prizes - wrong beans, wrong grind, and 4 days old - a decent brew needs beans ground within minutes at worst).
Nespresso is best described as not bad and not good
Per the article, in this blind taste test, the opposite appears to be true:
In distant last place came the ground coffee I had brought, a very good quality, single-estate bean, but not roasted for espresso and ground four days earlier, a little too coarsely for Bruno’s machine. The traditional house espresso scored 18 points, and was the favourite of one taster. But the clear winner with 22 points was the Nespresso, which both scored most consistently and was the favourite of two of the four tasters. Of course, these were just four people’s opinions. But their consensus fits the judgment of top chefs and Nespresso’s own extensive testing, which must have been conclusive enough for them to have the confidence to agree to my challenge in the first place.
The point I was trying to make is that you could hardly assemble worse 'data' if you tried. It's blatantly absurd from the coffee he used to test, and if you have ever had both Nespresso and decent coffee (e.g. just about any coffee shop in Portland) your tastebuds would need to be blind to consider Nespresso as on a par.
My own informal testing (which would seem to have at least equal scientific validity to the article) is based on friends and family A/B-ing my own decent home machine, some excellent local coffee shops, Starbucks, and a Nespresso machine I bought for a relative so that I could bear to drink their coffee when I visited.
Not trying to grandstand here but the article has misleading info (and may well be astroturf), that's all.
The article basically compared Nespresso to an unknown, un-sighted, possibly stale, possibly ground month earlier coffee and a coffee that was roasted incorrectly for the brew method and ground days earlier. You wouldn't really call this a good baseline to compare to any data that anyone provides.
One of the major reasons for this is that these chefs get crazy good deals from Nespresso as part of it's marketing, ie, it's in the best restaurants, it's good for you.
That's not quite true. Most beans should be given at least 24 hours rest after roast. Many African varietals need 48. That's the time it takes for CO2 in the beans to degas.
I usually try to use my beans within two weeks (and after around four days resting period) after roasting. But we have pretty bad humidity here so maybe you could keep it longer elsewhere.
As for after grinding - you can't really expect it to produce a decent extraction even _ten minutes_ after grinding.
My experience: I've tried nespresso and it's just not in the same league as really excellent coffee. This is true for some surprising reasons.
Coffee from most specialist espresso cafes is really not that good. But some are. I got the barista at one to teach me how she made coffee (Note: although already experienced, she wasn't very good for the first year at that cafe, but became extraordinary within 3 years).
The two things I learned were that (1). the grind is affected by the changing humidity and temperature of the day, so must be adjusted (this is more important for an espresso cafe, where the machine is near the entrance - in a fancy hotel, it would be climate controlled); (2). the texture of the milk froth (for a latte) is very important to the experience - when correct, you can see the milk falling like snow through the coffee. There is no boundary between coffee and milk, but a very gradual gradient (which disappears within a few minutes). Although it looks nice, the big difference
is in the incredible silky taste.
I'm a bit confused at what this article is trying to prove.
I live in Australia, which surprisingly has some of the best coffee culture in the world, but here you sort of just expect that all restaurants serve pretty crap coffee. I would never, ever use it as a benchmark for good coffee...
In my city (third largest in the country), we have hundreds of little cafes that either roast on-site or are supplied by local artesian roasters. The quality of the product that many of these places are producing is pretty incredible (to my taste at least), and I have never had a capsule coffee that comes close...
The real content of the article comes in the second half, after the coffee discussion is over.
I am tempted to comment on the coffee content as well, though.
This is much more true in Europe than in the United States. Many trendy restaurants in the US are actually getting less automatic by doing pour over coffee at the table or otherwise in view of the diners.
I realize the competition wasn't the main point of the article, but:
"In distant last place came the ground coffee I had brought, a very good quality, single-estate bean, but not roasted for espresso and ground four days earlier, a little too coarsely for Bruno’s machine."
Bringing not roasted for espresso coffee to espresso competition makes me wonder what was the purpose of the competition. Why not to bring something that had the characteristics of a winning coffee.
technically, how can they make ground coffee in a pod comparable to freshly ground coffee? even if you use an inert gas in the pod, aren't you going to have chemical changes in the pod? and some loss (evaporation) of lighter chemicals? it seems like if grinding freshly is important (and i have heard many times that it is), then it's just not physically possible to reproduce the taste via a pre-ground pod. odd.
The gas works well at preserving the coffee from oxidation. The bigger problem is with water temperature - espresso is incredibly sensitive and will become either sour or bitter if the temperature goes outside a very narrow band. This is what you are spending money on with expensive espresso machines - PID temperature controls and lots of heavy brass parts to maintain an even heat. Nespresso machines are pretty cheap and plastic and I believe they use specially made bland coffee blends to disguise this.
Frankly you are better off with French press or pourover at home.
Ordering coffee or tea in a restaurant is most of the time disappointing anyway. Doesnt matter how fine or average the place is, they seen to use some bulk coffee usually prepared with an industrial coffee maker (drip coffee, not espresso drinks).
Restaurants take great care of lot other food and beverage details by for some reason they cant use decent fresh coffee or tea.
Chess enthusiasts recently enjoyed two humans play in the World Chess Championship even though the machine has conquered chess. I see no reason that coffee lovers need give up the barista.
I have a Nespresso and have made my own Sous Vide cooker, but I'll throw stakes on the BBQ at most dinner parties because of the social aspects.
I don't see an issue. The capsule coffee should be just as good and if its a time saver then why wouldn't a business use them.
Personally I don't use a capsule machine because I don't want my coffee choices limited by manufacturer. Also, instead of 25c per cup, capsules are 80-90c per cup.
I think people underestimate the importance of "consistency"! As a coffee lover I value consistency a lot. Nespresso may not be "the best" coffee but it offers a great taste/cost/practicality value.
In order to pack coffee into air-tight pods like Nespresso does, the coffee must first completely degas and become stale. What fine restaurant would serve a stale dish? Regardless of consistency, taste, automation, etc?
I really agree on this: "Humans are imperfect, and so a world of perfection that denies the human element can never be truly perfect after all.".. Nice post!
Automation vs "handmade" is a very important topic for our geek world, and very broad. This article signals that, even in something as human as making coffee, automation is clearly winning. And yet the author refuses to concede the point (I'd do the same, although for different reasons).
It's important for anyone involved in creative industries to understand, in their specific field, what can be automated today, what has already been automated, and what should not be automated. These are huge factors that will affect your training, your output, your pricing, your marketing and your future strategy, regardless of which field of endeavour you're in.
The absolute worst case scenario is that the culinary world becomes like the visual arts or fashion worlds; the materials and general skills are broadly available, but there shall ever be an upper end of the art from which to sneer down at the plebians, even if it only in style and fashions, and by that I mean raw styles and fashions. The clothing fashion world shows this most clearly, in that creating knockoffs of today's fashions isn't even that technically challenging, and yet there is still a "high class" fashion world for those who care to participate in.
The instinctive human drive to differentiate is what creates that, the upper class attitude is what creates that, the incidental details of how one particular field happens to signal is hardly relevant, the actual details are themselves nearly infinitely malleable.
The programming world is so many levels deep into automation of automation of automation that we've nearly forgotten the promises that one day we'd be automated out of existence. But the promises were made, and they failed, because we merely upped our expectations and advanced to the next level. Perhaps someday there won't be a "next level" for us to rise to, but that is a world so different from ours we can no longer predict what it is like.
The culinary world will adapt. There will be much moaning, must wringing of hands, and a hell of a lot of signaling words flying around about how wonderful hand crafted artisan food is (even if for some reason, every day, fewer people act to consume it), even as there is ever and always still an elite, which will probably consist of mostly the same people anyhow.